Lower Waterholes Canyon, Page, Arizona

Waterholes Canyon is a famous Navajo Nation drainage in northern Arizona near Page. Lower Waterholes is a 4BIII requiring technical canyoneering competence and a pack raft — the canyon exits to the Colorado River and you float 4 miles downstream to Lee's Ferry. Permits required from the Navajo Nation recreational center in Page for both upper and lower. Leave a shuttle car at Lee's Ferry (don't leave the keys in the top car — ask Chris). Team: Chris, Daniel, Gokcen, Peter Buschbacher.

I drove up the night before and camped at the trailhead. Woke to sunrise, cooked breakfast, and waited for the team. The canyon is wavy fluted sandstone with beautiful swirls and fascinating strata layers. Several drops and downclimbs lead to the nasty water passage — green slime that everyone jumps into and swims across to the technical section. First rap: 90ft to a tabletop. Then the three main drops that make this canyon famous.

The Edge of the Earth is 310ft — we had a 330ft rope with 5-10ft to spare at the bottom. Rigged from the bitch perch at the lip. After the crack passage (fits 2-3 people), a 15-20ft intermediate drop gives access to the main anchor bolts. Do NOT get the rope into the final crack segment on pull. The 310ft is a fantastic smooth ride down red sandstone.

After the final 90ft rap it's an inferno mile hike to the Colorado. Jumped in — feet went from burning hot to freezing cold. 4-mile pack raft to Lee's Ferry. Bring a water filter to drink from the river. The shoreline can be traversed in emergency (deflated raft). One of the best canyon experiences I've had. Highly recommended for competent 4B canyoneers. Bring a 330ft rope. Get permits from the Navajo Nation recreational center in Page.