Black Hole of White Canyon, Utah

The day is young as we lift our unusually light backpacks and head down into a canyon where no technical equipment is required. Hiking down into White Canyon, the varnished walls and cream-colored sandstone characterize this region with amazing vibrance and solitude. An overcast of hazy clouds brought some question to our pursuit — we waited on a ledge to observe the cloud cover so we wouldn't be caught in a flash. Weather reports said no rain, but what was above us told a slightly different story.

Clouds cleared and we headed for the Black Hole. The canyon narrowed with fluted rock features resembling high-flow cave passage. Water-cut fins and talon-like sculptures, logs keyed into rock 30 feet above our heads — signs of very high water. Then came the swimming: up to 20 minutes of continuous cold water in the high 40s through cavernous narrows. One friend forgot his wetsuit — his skin turned purple and he was heading toward hypothermia. A beam of light teasing the mind to greener pastures, only to find more swimming. It eventually relented. Straightforward hike out to the plateau. Such a beautiful region — a classic Cedar Mesa adventure.